Having been to Annapurna Base Camp and Muktinath (both in the Annapurna region), I have always felt that my trip to Nepal is not complete without going to the Mt. Everest region. Moreover, it has always been my dream to see Mt. Everest. I am often fascinated by the mystique and the splendour of the mountain.
Nepal and the Himalaya beckon me.
On the evening of 22 November, I left for the country in search of my dream.
I was joined by 11 others for the trip – six ladies, four men and a fourteen year old boy whom we fondly called Onn chai (son of one of the team members, Leow). Our mission was to scale Kala Pattar at 5,545m in the Mt. Everest region. It was Onn chai’s second trip to Nepal and fifth for Leow. Five of the members were first timers.
The morning after we arrived in Nepal, we flew to Lukla, a half-hour flight from Kathmandu. We started our trekking right from the airport. Destination for the day was Phakding at 2,800m. As for the previous trips, we engaged Krishna as our guide and we had six porters to carry our load of luggage. It was a three-hour walk weaving intermittently through the cobbled-stone paths and steep concrete steps. The trail drops steeply then descends gently and finally climbs again before reaching Phakding. We also crossed the first of the many suspension bridges.
From Phakding, we went on to Namche Bazaar (at 3,440m), the administrative centre for the Khumbu region. It was a 7-hour long and gruelling trek with steep ascent and descent interspersed with the occasional pleasant trails alongside the river. It was cold and windy. There were a lot of people along the trail, both the locals and trekkers.
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First Glimpse of Mt. Everest
Namche Bazaar is a flourishing village bustled with trekkers most of the year round. Many lodges and hotels are under construction to cater for the increasing number of trekkers and tourists. It is also an essential acclimatisation stop for those who plan to trek / climb to higher ground.
The following day, we trekked up to Syangboche (at 3,900m) and Khumjung (at 3,790m) before heading back to Namche Bazaar. The purpose of this ‘side trek’ was to acclimatise ourselves (to avoid acute mountain sickness or AMS, which is common at altitude beyond 3,000m) before ascending further.
At Syangboche, we had our first glimpse of Mt. Everest, together with other peaks such as Ama Dablam and Lhotse draping in snow. It was uplifting and rewarding to have such magnificent view after hours of hard labour. It was an exhilarating moment.
While in Khumjung, we visited the school which was established by Sir Edmund Hillary, the first man who set foot on the peak of Mt. Everest in 1953. The team members brought some goodies, such as pens, pencils, sharpeners, T-shirts, sweets, etc. for the children. It touched our hearts deeply when we saw how simple things like pens and sharpeners could bring so much cheers and broad smiles on the faces of these children.
As we left the school, we could hear the laughter and the tumultuous chattering of the children tailing off in the distance.
On the way back to Namche Bazaar, part of the trail was covered with snow. While it was a welcoming sight, it was indeed no fun walking on one. It was very slippery. We walked with much care and very slowly to avoid any fall or injury as many long and tough days were still ahead!
Overall, it was a good workout and acclimatisation.
The following day, we trekked up to Syangboche (at 3,900m) and Khumjung (at 3,790m) before heading back to Namche Bazaar. The purpose of this ‘side trek’ was to acclimatise ourselves (to avoid acute mountain sickness or AMS, which is common at altitude beyond 3,000m) before ascending further.
At Syangboche, we had our first glimpse of Mt. Everest, together with other peaks such as Ama Dablam and Lhotse draping in snow. It was uplifting and rewarding to have such magnificent view after hours of hard labour. It was an exhilarating moment.
While in Khumjung, we visited the school which was established by Sir Edmund Hillary, the first man who set foot on the peak of Mt. Everest in 1953. The team members brought some goodies, such as pens, pencils, sharpeners, T-shirts, sweets, etc. for the children. It touched our hearts deeply when we saw how simple things like pens and sharpeners could bring so much cheers and broad smiles on the faces of these children.
As we left the school, we could hear the laughter and the tumultuous chattering of the children tailing off in the distance.
On the way back to Namche Bazaar, part of the trail was covered with snow. While it was a welcoming sight, it was indeed no fun walking on one. It was very slippery. We walked with much care and very slowly to avoid any fall or injury as many long and tough days were still ahead!
Overall, it was a good workout and acclimatisation.
So Close I Could ‘Touch’ the Mountains!
For the next five days, we trekked all the way to Lobuje at 4,930m, stopping over at Sanasa (3,600m), Pangboche (3,870m) and Dingboche (4,410m).
We started the day with a visit to the bazaar and market place in Namche Bazaar. Here, basically, there are two parts – the open-air market which caters mainly for the locals while the shops adjacent to the open markets sell mainly trekking / mountaineering gears.
During these five days, we experienced myriads of weather conditions, landscape, vista and trails. From the relatively easy trail, we traversed through tough steep climb and descent; from cobbled-stone steps to rocky trails; and from narrow track to rolling hills to wide open valley. While some trails were either dusty, sandy or muddy, others were covered with snow and even ice, which could be very slippery and difficult to walk on. As we ascended higher and higher, rhododendron and pine forest soon gave way to alpine meadows and tundra.
When we arrived in Sanasa, the ground was covered with snow. And as we did not have a very tough and tiring day, we still had some energy to ‘spare’, and so we spent the evening enjoying the beautiful view while some of us had ‘snow fight’! We retired to the dining area to keep ourselves warm (usually the only place with heater) as the sun disappeared behind the mountains and the cold started to set in.
More snow-covered trails awaited us as we journeyed along. While there were times when we had to trek in the freezing cold condition with biting wind, there were times when we were treated with beautiful sunshine, clear blue sky and cool breeze.
In Pangboche, as we approached the lodge, snow flakes started to flutter down amidst the cold breeze. We could not have been happier at our perfect timing for the temperature started to plummet as soon as we entered the garden of the lodge.
Dingboche (4,410m) was our second stop for acclimatisation. We took a day off to trek to Chhukung (at 4,730m) and back.
Above 4,000m, water froze at room temperature and wet towels became frozen stiff. At such high altitude, our movements were impeded due to thin air. Simple task like tying shoelace could become a chore while rolling up sleeping bags in the early morning could prove to be a daunting and tiring task.
At Chhukung, we saw the closed-up view of Ama Dablam and Lhotse. On the way to Lobuje, some of the mountains appeared so close as if I could stretch out my hands and touch them. Beautiful scenery and mountains which I could see only on calendars before now appear so close and vivid in front of me. It was breathtaking and spellbinding. I gaped in awe and admiration. I felt dwarfed and insignificant.
On the way to Lobuje, we came across a memorial park, where stones and shrines were erected in memory of those who perished during the climbing trips.
We started the day with a visit to the bazaar and market place in Namche Bazaar. Here, basically, there are two parts – the open-air market which caters mainly for the locals while the shops adjacent to the open markets sell mainly trekking / mountaineering gears.
During these five days, we experienced myriads of weather conditions, landscape, vista and trails. From the relatively easy trail, we traversed through tough steep climb and descent; from cobbled-stone steps to rocky trails; and from narrow track to rolling hills to wide open valley. While some trails were either dusty, sandy or muddy, others were covered with snow and even ice, which could be very slippery and difficult to walk on. As we ascended higher and higher, rhododendron and pine forest soon gave way to alpine meadows and tundra.
When we arrived in Sanasa, the ground was covered with snow. And as we did not have a very tough and tiring day, we still had some energy to ‘spare’, and so we spent the evening enjoying the beautiful view while some of us had ‘snow fight’! We retired to the dining area to keep ourselves warm (usually the only place with heater) as the sun disappeared behind the mountains and the cold started to set in.
More snow-covered trails awaited us as we journeyed along. While there were times when we had to trek in the freezing cold condition with biting wind, there were times when we were treated with beautiful sunshine, clear blue sky and cool breeze.
In Pangboche, as we approached the lodge, snow flakes started to flutter down amidst the cold breeze. We could not have been happier at our perfect timing for the temperature started to plummet as soon as we entered the garden of the lodge.
Dingboche (4,410m) was our second stop for acclimatisation. We took a day off to trek to Chhukung (at 4,730m) and back.
Above 4,000m, water froze at room temperature and wet towels became frozen stiff. At such high altitude, our movements were impeded due to thin air. Simple task like tying shoelace could become a chore while rolling up sleeping bags in the early morning could prove to be a daunting and tiring task.
At Chhukung, we saw the closed-up view of Ama Dablam and Lhotse. On the way to Lobuje, some of the mountains appeared so close as if I could stretch out my hands and touch them. Beautiful scenery and mountains which I could see only on calendars before now appear so close and vivid in front of me. It was breathtaking and spellbinding. I gaped in awe and admiration. I felt dwarfed and insignificant.
On the way to Lobuje, we came across a memorial park, where stones and shrines were erected in memory of those who perished during the climbing trips.
‘Why Am I Here?’
Sometimes going through the bitter cold evenings waiting for dinner to be served and having difficulties in sleeping could be harder than the trekking itself and loneliness crept in as we hunched up in the sleeping bags like cocoons. And during many of these cold and wintry nights, we asked ourselves, ‘Why are we here, forsaking the warmth and coziness of homes?’ But the answer was obvious – ‘because the mountain is there’. (Quote from the great mountaineer, George Mallory, when asked why he climbed Mt. Everest.)
From Lobuje, we headed for Gorak Shep at 5,160m.
It was a tough 3-hour trek to Gorak Shep. From the wide open space of undulating trail we traversed through very steep rocky and fragmented boulders track. Sometimes there is no clear-cut track and we had to follow closely behind porters or other trekkers. Along the way, we saw the famous Khumbu Glacier and Khumbu Icefall, where climbers heading for Mt. Everest peak would have to pass, near to the Everest Base Camp. We also had a good view of Pumori peak for the first time.
As the day wore on, we became more and more tired; steps became heavier and pace, slower. As we were panting, puffing and struggling up the steep uneven rocky trail, the occasional flat sections came as a great relief to our pounding hearts and weary legs. The air was getting thinner and thinner as we ascended and we had to stop more and more often to catch our breath. The consolation was that the weather was good. It was not too cold, neither was it too windy. We beamed with joy (despite the tiredness) when we finally saw some lodges appear not too far in the distance. We were almost there. After a short descent, we finally reached the sandy flat expanse of Gorak Shep.
From Lobuje, we headed for Gorak Shep at 5,160m.
It was a tough 3-hour trek to Gorak Shep. From the wide open space of undulating trail we traversed through very steep rocky and fragmented boulders track. Sometimes there is no clear-cut track and we had to follow closely behind porters or other trekkers. Along the way, we saw the famous Khumbu Glacier and Khumbu Icefall, where climbers heading for Mt. Everest peak would have to pass, near to the Everest Base Camp. We also had a good view of Pumori peak for the first time.
As the day wore on, we became more and more tired; steps became heavier and pace, slower. As we were panting, puffing and struggling up the steep uneven rocky trail, the occasional flat sections came as a great relief to our pounding hearts and weary legs. The air was getting thinner and thinner as we ascended and we had to stop more and more often to catch our breath. The consolation was that the weather was good. It was not too cold, neither was it too windy. We beamed with joy (despite the tiredness) when we finally saw some lodges appear not too far in the distance. We were almost there. After a short descent, we finally reached the sandy flat expanse of Gorak Shep.
A Dream No More
After a quick lunch, we set out at 2.15pm for our final assault to Kala Pattar peak at 5,545m. The steep rocky terrain coupled with the strong biting wind made our ascent extremely tiring, difficult and slow.
We were almost at the end of our tether as we lumbered up the rocky trail, when Mt. Everest appeared in close range. The absence of snow and appearing in between other snow-cloaked mountains accentuated the mystique and grandeur of the mountain. (We were told that the reason why there was no snow on Mt. Everest, unlike others, was because the slopes are too steep and the wind, too strong.) It was a captivating and overwhelming moment. A wave of excitement hit me. My weary face instantly transformed into one of joy and pride. It was no longer just a dream, it was a reality!
When we reached the height of about 5,500m, we were told that it was another one hour of tough walking before reaching the peak. By then it was 4.00pm. The weather started to change – it was getting colder and we anticipated that by the time we start to descend, it would be dark (sky starts to turn dark at around five o’clock). After weighing the situation, I decided to turn back with two other team members as I did not want to trek in the dark. While I had the burning desire to reach Kala Patter, I believe it should not be done at the expense of safety.
(Our original plan was to stay at Gorak Shep for a night, had a good rest, then head for Kala Patter early next morning to catch sunrise. But, as we had arrived in Gorak Shep earlier than expected, it was suggested that we proceed to Kala Patter on the same day. And somewhere along the line, there was a delay. Otherwise, we would have sufficient time to make it. I was disappointed, no doubt, that I did not get to the top of Kala Patter – it was so near yet so far – but as I had said before, safety came first.)
On the way back, we saw the spectacular sunset of the Himalayan range. The golden ray of the sun illuminated the cliff face and I was completely entranced by the mere sight of it. It somewhat alleviated the disappointment (of not being able to get to the top of Kala Pattar) a little.
By the time we reached the lodge, the water in my water bottle had started to turn into ice!
In the end, it was the survival of the fittest. Four – Ye, Tan, Leow and Onn chai (Leow’s son) – finally reached the top. According to their account, the last one hour trek was extremely difficult especially the last stretch near to the peak. It was bitterly cold up there. Nevertheless the view and scenery were spectacular and stupendous from the top. It was worth draining the last drop of the energy to experience the ultimate challenge and to complete the journey.
We were almost at the end of our tether as we lumbered up the rocky trail, when Mt. Everest appeared in close range. The absence of snow and appearing in between other snow-cloaked mountains accentuated the mystique and grandeur of the mountain. (We were told that the reason why there was no snow on Mt. Everest, unlike others, was because the slopes are too steep and the wind, too strong.) It was a captivating and overwhelming moment. A wave of excitement hit me. My weary face instantly transformed into one of joy and pride. It was no longer just a dream, it was a reality!
When we reached the height of about 5,500m, we were told that it was another one hour of tough walking before reaching the peak. By then it was 4.00pm. The weather started to change – it was getting colder and we anticipated that by the time we start to descend, it would be dark (sky starts to turn dark at around five o’clock). After weighing the situation, I decided to turn back with two other team members as I did not want to trek in the dark. While I had the burning desire to reach Kala Patter, I believe it should not be done at the expense of safety.
(Our original plan was to stay at Gorak Shep for a night, had a good rest, then head for Kala Patter early next morning to catch sunrise. But, as we had arrived in Gorak Shep earlier than expected, it was suggested that we proceed to Kala Patter on the same day. And somewhere along the line, there was a delay. Otherwise, we would have sufficient time to make it. I was disappointed, no doubt, that I did not get to the top of Kala Patter – it was so near yet so far – but as I had said before, safety came first.)
On the way back, we saw the spectacular sunset of the Himalayan range. The golden ray of the sun illuminated the cliff face and I was completely entranced by the mere sight of it. It somewhat alleviated the disappointment (of not being able to get to the top of Kala Pattar) a little.
By the time we reached the lodge, the water in my water bottle had started to turn into ice!
In the end, it was the survival of the fittest. Four – Ye, Tan, Leow and Onn chai (Leow’s son) – finally reached the top. According to their account, the last one hour trek was extremely difficult especially the last stretch near to the peak. It was bitterly cold up there. Nevertheless the view and scenery were spectacular and stupendous from the top. It was worth draining the last drop of the energy to experience the ultimate challenge and to complete the journey.
Nice Hot Shower – After Eight Days!
The following day, we started to descend heading for Pheriche at 4,240m. It was a six-hour long walk. Pheriche is in a valley. First part of the trail was generally a steep ascent and decent followed by relatively flat and easy walk interspersed with some rocks and big boulders. The journey seemed long and endless as we walked through the valley. It was very windy and freezing cold.
From Pheriche, we went on to Sanasa then to Namche Bazaar.
We had wanted to trek from Pheriche to Namche Bazaar the day before. But as it was getting late and some team members were getting too tired, we decided to put up a night in Sanasa and continued the journey to Namche Bazaar the following day.
We could not wait to get back to Namche Bazaar for we could then take a good hot shower. The last time we had a proper shower was also in Namche Bazaar but eight days earlier! Hot shower is difficult to come by on high mountains and we had to pay 150Rs (about RM 8.30) for it.
The last day of the journey was a ‘punishing’, gruelling 8-hour unrelenting trek back to Lukla from Namche Bazaar.
In all, we trekked for 13 days and a total of about 65 hours and traversed no less than 150km. The journey was tough no doubt and it was not entirely without problem (some of the team members experienced headache, exhaustion, cough, cold etc. which is not uncommon at high altitudes). But fortunately for us was that many of the team members have good sense of humour, positive thinking and good team spirit. It helped when the goings get tough.
From Pheriche, we went on to Sanasa then to Namche Bazaar.
We had wanted to trek from Pheriche to Namche Bazaar the day before. But as it was getting late and some team members were getting too tired, we decided to put up a night in Sanasa and continued the journey to Namche Bazaar the following day.
We could not wait to get back to Namche Bazaar for we could then take a good hot shower. The last time we had a proper shower was also in Namche Bazaar but eight days earlier! Hot shower is difficult to come by on high mountains and we had to pay 150Rs (about RM 8.30) for it.
The last day of the journey was a ‘punishing’, gruelling 8-hour unrelenting trek back to Lukla from Namche Bazaar.
In all, we trekked for 13 days and a total of about 65 hours and traversed no less than 150km. The journey was tough no doubt and it was not entirely without problem (some of the team members experienced headache, exhaustion, cough, cold etc. which is not uncommon at high altitudes). But fortunately for us was that many of the team members have good sense of humour, positive thinking and good team spirit. It helped when the goings get tough.
Grriing…What's That Sound?
Back in Lukla, we heard the ringing sound of telephone for the first time in two weeks. Somehow, the ringing sounded strange and weird to our ears. While up on the mountains, the only sounds we heard were from the bells worn by yaks and horses (equivalent to horns of vehicles) and the sound of the roaring rivers.
We had to stay an extra day in Luka because the flight was cancelled due to bad weather (flights in the mountain regions are very weather-dependent). As there was nothing much to do in the small town / village, we spent the extra day walking about the place, chit-chatting, looking at the photos (of the trip) on T.V. and watching some documentary shows (mountain climbing).
Going back to Kathmandu was like going back to civilisation. We had to readjust ourselves to the world of cacophony sounds. While in Kathmandu, besides the usual shopping in the Thamel area, we also visited some of the places which we had not been to before.
We had to stay an extra day in Luka because the flight was cancelled due to bad weather (flights in the mountain regions are very weather-dependent). As there was nothing much to do in the small town / village, we spent the extra day walking about the place, chit-chatting, looking at the photos (of the trip) on T.V. and watching some documentary shows (mountain climbing).
Going back to Kathmandu was like going back to civilisation. We had to readjust ourselves to the world of cacophony sounds. While in Kathmandu, besides the usual shopping in the Thamel area, we also visited some of the places which we had not been to before.
Love, Passion or Plain Craziness?
When I told some friends that I was going to Nepal for the third time, trekking; some of them thought that I was ‘crazy’, or that I had no better place to go. It is hard to understand when one does not share the same passion or interest. Some felt that ‘why do you want to pay to suffer (about trekking)?’
We met a Korean man during the trip. He has been to Nepal no less than five times and (if I remember correctly) third for the Everest Region. He went to Kala Pattar to see sunrise the day before we arrived in Gorap Shep. On the same day, he went back in the evening to see sunset. Not too happy with what he saw (of the sunrise) in the morning, he went back the next morning.
This Korean man reminded me of a group of Singaporeans whom we met in Phokara in 2000. They had been to Nepal seven times when we met!
And it was the fifth trip for our team mate, Leow.
These people are so full of passion and love for the mountains, the beautiful scenery and the challenge. They would never get tired of going back to the same place, doing the same thing. To them, it is fulfilling and rewarding and whatever it takes, it is worth it.
Are these people crazy? Well, one man’s meat is another man’s poison.
This journey and experience had brought me to new heights and added a new and exciting chapter to my adventures…
I will not emulate the Korean man or the Singaporeans, but perhaps another trip back is not too excessive – or crazy – to consider…
We met a Korean man during the trip. He has been to Nepal no less than five times and (if I remember correctly) third for the Everest Region. He went to Kala Pattar to see sunrise the day before we arrived in Gorap Shep. On the same day, he went back in the evening to see sunset. Not too happy with what he saw (of the sunrise) in the morning, he went back the next morning.
This Korean man reminded me of a group of Singaporeans whom we met in Phokara in 2000. They had been to Nepal seven times when we met!
And it was the fifth trip for our team mate, Leow.
These people are so full of passion and love for the mountains, the beautiful scenery and the challenge. They would never get tired of going back to the same place, doing the same thing. To them, it is fulfilling and rewarding and whatever it takes, it is worth it.
Are these people crazy? Well, one man’s meat is another man’s poison.
This journey and experience had brought me to new heights and added a new and exciting chapter to my adventures…
I will not emulate the Korean man or the Singaporeans, but perhaps another trip back is not too excessive – or crazy – to consider…
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